Saturday, November 18, 2017

8/16

A Day in Kaunas

Awoke early while Daniel was out for a run. Packed up to move downstairs, and then we all went to breakfast at the corner bakery. At first, Daniel was unsure, but I assured him they had lots of options. They did, and Daniel claimed his borscht was one of the best he’d even eaten. Fully fortified, we walked 2-3 blocks to the War Museum and the adjacent Ciurlionis Museum.


This backdrop was painted around 1909. People in the Baltics still celebrate the old ways with a raised fire altar close to a sacred tree[s]. My apologies for the photo quality, but they have it protected behind a clear panel that reflects the light and camera shots.

Kim took the boys to tour the Military Museum while Daniel and I toured the Ciurlionis [beloved mystical painter & composer] Museum.


Hallway glass

Found great souvenirs, and then we all met in the park outside, crossed the street, and visited the totally unique Devil’s Museum about which I’ve written many times.


Best of the examples I captured - that old devil moon.

Afterwards, the swains went back to the apt. while the adults shopped our way down the lane. First we stopped at an ATM [and somewhere along the way I lost my ATM card,
Sidewalk outside the bank

but at least I had obtained some euros first. Kim was enchanted with a nic-nac shop, but I really wanted them to see the Saule gallery.
Pysankai [decorated eggs] above and juostai [sashes/belts below]

They did and bought a painting. I added more amber ‘fingers’ and belts to my hoard. Then we all went back to our pads to relax before dinner.

My studio below their 2 BR [forgot to take pics upstairs. I just was there to sleep, and, in my defense, I left before coffee.]


Kaunas bedroom

My fabulous tub

We were game for the ‘Hunters’ restaurant and had my favorite; reservations! We were going to take a bus; instead we walked a fur piece from our alley to old town, but it was a lovely day, and it wasn’t that far.
I’ve written of the place before; it’s in the town hall square, and it is a game restaurant.
Everything painted on the panels could be on the menu


Daniel ordered a hunters’ plate of elk, boar, venison, and other delicacies. We enjoyed a lovely bottle of French white wine. The boys had steaks, and I thoroughly enjoyed a veal stew with plums. After dinner we strolled across the square towards the partially restored Kaunas castle.


Max had a blast swinging on a rope attached to the bridge over the moat.
The bridge is in the foreground. We could hear the jazz club and see other signs of nightlife on the other side.

It was almost 10 pm when the Sun disappeared and we went to the Iki [food store] at the bus terminus and caught one back to our digs. Took a long bath and had a restful night.

Thursday, November 16, 2017

first night in Kaunas

Finally back to finishing up our trip.
We left the village after Zolines around circle
8/15 Arrived at our Kaunas apartment on “Freedom Lane” after dark, but they met us and gave us the keys. Because they knew me, they said we didn’t have to pay till tomorrow [which is pretty cool for Lithuanians]. I put the Spatzes in a 2 bedroom apt. I’d stayed in last year when my studio wasn’t vacant yet. Their apartment was a mid-century modern dream, and this year, I slept on the living room couch the first night since, again, my studio was still occupied. They offered to move me to another place nearby, but I didn’t want to move out of the building.
[flowers outside our building]